The original v1 and v2 installs were meant to be easily removable from the car, mainly due to the rough area in which I lived in at the time. V4 is different, in that it will act like a top of the range factory fitted car computer system, and be tightly integrated with the car itself. Although that has and will require a lot of custom software, the important thing is that the connections are already there to allow the software to be built for the platform rather than evolve slowly.
First and foremost was to create a mock-up of how I envisaged the final dashboard will look:. Once I'd decided how I wanted it to look I popped down the local ford dealer and picked up another fascia panel. The new fascia panel would be used for the construction of the in-dash display. At this point there was some careful consideration over whether to mould the panel myself, or get it done professionally.
Once posted, I had to wait just over a week for the screen to be fabricated into the fascia panel - and Chris kept me informed every step of the way consulting me about how I would want the final product to look. Here's the step-by-step photos of the construction of the screen. It was around this point Christian let me know that I'd be losing the hazard button from it's original location.
Although he could move it anywhere I wanted I chose to have it off the fascia panel completely, opting to move it to somewhere else myself - I couldn't think of anywhere on the actual panel it would look OEM. The reason for this is, that the screen itself is slightly too large for the dashboard opening unless I cut away some of the dash plastic behind, which I was not happy to do.
You can see that below:. I chose to have the fascia panel finished in the same colour as the original. So, once back together - I tested it to see how it would look. Initial results, very pleasing:. After this, it was necessary to complete the lilliput auto-on modification, which you'll find details of later on. Behind the screen controller circuit board pictured is the original back to the screen.
This wasn't fitted in the photo above but is now, and it serves to hold the controller board in place. The parts of the controller board are affixed using a glue gun. Once I had the screen in and working I needed to get it tested to make sure the setup worked. I was lucky enough to be given a Karputer. Not my permanent solution, as it doesn't support the full Opus feature set mainly standby - I dont like waiting for boot-up!
You can see in the picture, it's a very simple setup. KCU unit, provides power and amplification, and has it's own loom. Very complete. Full review to follow, soon. And once working, plonking it in the boot and connecting the KCU - as it was a test setup, none of the wiring needed to be under the carpets - my proper wiring would be doing that. I had the test setup running for a couple of weeks while I made sure the software was reliable, and the screen worked properly in the dashboard.
For the full installation, which won't be removed it was important to make sure the wiring was good quality, reliable and secure and I had a diagram of how it would go in, as the wiring was to be installed and built in seperate parts.
The USB webcam and USB GPS were not on the diagram, neither is the microphone simply because they are simple installations which don't require splicing into other cabling, or following the custom 'wiring loom'.
First up is the battery wiring, which will provide the power for the whole system. It's wired from the battery all the way into the boot. So, once the main power wire is in, with the fuse unplugged to ensure it's not live, the rest of the wiring had to go in. I'm replacing the whole head unit with the car PC, so we have to run cables from the PC to power the screen and drive the speakers, and wire the car aerial into the Car PC for the radio.
We also need the 'ignition on' wire from the radio connectors to tell the PC when to turn on from standby and when to enter standby. So, first job was to build a set of connections to drive the speakers, power the screen etc.
The wiring is wired under the centre console, and then under the carpet into the boot:. Under the carpet, the main wiring splits, with the PC cabling screen power, ignition on, aerial merging with the VGA, OBDII and USB which you see at the top of the picture below and the speaker wiring down the centre going to the other side of the boot. Other wiring was installed for monitoring the reverse gear, which would be a fused connection to run a relay, which in turn connected pins 3 and 8 on the second PC serial port.
Additionally, it's also important to find or make a decent ground point for the system. Luckily I had a great one read-made in the boot. I had a few options for the boot install. Fancade PC v 1. Geometry Jump 3D PC v 0. Granny 3-d PC v 3. Arcade Bowling Go 2 PC v 3. Car Drawing Game PC v 1.
Dragon Drill PC v 2. The Big Hit PC v 2. Cake Art 3D PC v 2. Roadrunner APK 0. Profil Anmelden Registrieren. Advanced Search…. CPI Forum. Talk talk talk :: Wetten :: Posted by Krig47 Talk talk talk :: Freizeit :: Posted by Krig47 Talk talk talk :: Lieblingsmusik beim Autofahren? Talk talk talk :: Suche gute Offshore-Entwicklungsfirma? Neu im Wiki. RoadRunner current version Size: Document Actions.
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