Im not really sure how to use the Canon Ae-1 properly. If I want the picture to be exposed correct, where should the metering needle be if I use it fully manually? And if I put it on A. The manual for the camera just says that if the metering needle reaches the red area in the top, then its overexposed and if it hits the red area in the bottom, its underexposed. But is does not say where it should be for optimal exposure.
I assume you have the AE1, not the AE1 program. The AE1 has a simple and reasonably accurate centre weighted averaging meter it meters the whole image you see on the screen, but gives biggest input to the area around the centre.
Now, in "A" mode, you are shooting in shutter priority - this means, you select the shutter speed, and the camera selects the approporiate apperture. When the needle goes off the scale, there is either no apperture big or small enough to allow for proper exposure with the shutter speed you chose.
To shoot fully manual, you set the speed dial on the shutter speed you want, and the numbers on the scale indicate what apperture to choose - namely, the needle has no "right" location, it rests next to the number indicating approporiate apperture.
If this apperture is not desireable for whatever reason too little or too much depth of field, not optimum lens performance, etc , you move the shutter speed dial to allow your apperture selection. Of course, be sure to have the ASA set correctly for the film you have loaded. There is also a stopped-down metering mode for use with older FL lenses and macro bellows and other odd applications, but that is something that you probably don't want to get into unless you get far enough along to realize the need for it.
I hope this helps, if not, feel free to email me with further questions. I see. Yes its the Ae-1 and not the Ae-1 Program. Thank you very much for your help Peter. Appreciate it. I've owned numerous A Series Canons and have always considered them "print film" cameras because of their solo average metering pattern.
Great for general purpose even lighting situations but weak with anything of high contrast lighting or use with narrow exposure latitude slide film. F1's and some of the T Series are what I consider much more precise tools and are great for slide film use because they had a choice of average,partial,or spot metering for those really tough lighting situations.
Kudos to Canon for offering a choice back in the day,few other manufacturers offered both series. Likewise for Canon's bias towards shutter priority because most of us shoot hand held and shutter speed is the only game in town hand held,especially in low light or over 85mm focal length. AE-1 Manual. Here's some quick and dirty advice: make sure to point the camera at something that is more or less middle grey.
Faded blue jeans are good by the way. The Canon AE-1 Program could very well be the perfect memory-making machine, and one of the best ways to experience photography in its purest form. The Program mode was arguably the biggest selling point of the AE-1 Program back in the 80s, but the camera offered many more interesting features for the more advanced user, which made it a commercial hit among all kinds of photography enthusiasts.
As convenient and worry-free as the Program mode is, where the AE-1 Program really shines is in full manual mode. The Canon AE-1 Program offers just the right amount of options, without all the clutter present in modern cameras.
Repeat as needed. This is simplicity at its best. This allows you to shoot freely by simply dialing in the desired shutter speed, as the camera will select the appropriate aperture automatically. The AE-1 Program is a truly beautiful camera. Its design takes a page from the classic Leica rangefinders, only adapted to an SLR body.
The top and bottom plates are made of chrome-plated plastic. The rest of the body is made of textured plastic, and provides just the right amount of grip.
It is, after all, a full-fledged SLR. This is the classic equivalent of modern ISO, which is always necessary to configure because films with different speeds will need different exposure parameters. Once you select the appropriate speed, you can just forget about it until you change to a different film type. The back of the camera is elegant and sober, without any superfluous elements.
The viewfinder is huge and bright, and it makes it really easy to compose shots with any FD lens, even in poor lighting conditions. It also has a built-in display with everything you need to know to select the right exposure parameters. There are several vertically aligned LEDs to the right of the viewfinder, which display the appropriate aperture for the selected shutter speed. This is great when shooting in manual or shutter priority modes.
Viewfinder information. Source: Malaysian Internet Resources. I only have one, but the AE-1 Program originally shipped with several interchangeable screens optimized for different types of scenes. There are simply no unsolvable problems with this camera. Loading film onto the AE-1 Program is quick and easy: just pull the rewind lever upwards and the back plate pops open, revealing the film holder compartment.
I metered the same shot off the Canon and Nikon, a 28mm shot of a field in bright daylight - the Nikon came in at F8, the Canon at F There were other shots, in a different location, using a 50mm lens, where both cameras read the scene at at 5. I would agree that I'm not used to the meter in the Canon. I'm still trying to work out the kinks in it, or at least I think I am. How can I tell which meter mode the is set to? It's m parents' camera and they couldn't find the manual when I borrowed it for class.
I will run a test pointing both at the wall tho. I'm also interested in finding out filter compensation issues, if the camera doesn't automatically recognize the light loss due to a filter. Any responses are appreciated So after reading the manual and looking at my Nikon, it's set on the matrix metering system. How could I get the AE-1 to get results closer to that if it is a centered metering system?
I suspected that was the issue. As far as what the meter will read, and how to use it, look at it this way: - the matrix metering system does some of the thinking for you. Some are better than others, but most do a good job in most cases. What's in the scene? What range do the light conditions cover? What do YOU want to be properly exposed? Personally, I suggest you turn of the matrix metering if you are learning. Although it works very well as you can see it teaches you nothing about light, light metering, exposure and how these things relate.
It will simply think for you, and the one time that IT gets confused, YOU won't know why or how to correct it. The ins and outs of all this are a little much to cover in a forum post, and I hardly feel qualified to give lessons - but I suggest that you read up on the subject. Understand what the meter is telling you, how it works, and how that relates to what you commit to the film.
Finally, get a roll of colour slide film and shoot that. But first and foremost, read, read, and read some more. Just a quick note on the filters. Efke 25 is almost blind to red light. Most meters get you in the ball park with the filter in place on an SLR, but again, be careful - some cells are more or less sensitive to certain parts of the spectrum.
I have metered through red and yellow filters with an AE1 with no problems - but apparently the Canon EOS line is a little tricky with red filters.
That's just an example. I asked about filters because of the specific and unusual among modern films response curve of Efke
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